RESTAURANT REVIEW: OYSTER & SHELL, TSUKIJI

Walking back to central Tokyo from Odaiba, as I sometimes do, one passes through an area of reclaimed land and modern bridges.

This may strike most people as rather soulless, but as you near the centre, things start to get more real. By the time you're in Tsukiji, the old fish market area of Tokyo, there is plenty to see. And coming at it from this side, there is less of a touristy feel.

This is exactly where you will find Oyster & Shell and the long walk had allowed me to build up quite an appetite.

I hear this place is usually kind of busy, but when I arrived, it was after "peak lunchtime," so there was no waiting and plenty of space and the atmosphere was just right. This also allowed me to view the entire set-up from the fully visible kitchen at the back (behind a wall of glass to keep the clatter to a minimum) to the clean, bright wooden surfaces.

The seats are along an L-shaped counter that allows immediate interaction with the staff whenever you need something, and the vibe that the waitresses give out in their spotless garb and face masks is not unlike that of the miko, or shrine maidens, that one encounters at the bigger jinjas. Everything just feels very "spiritually pure," which sounds like an odd thing to say about an establishment that is there to serve the carnal appetites.

I kept it simple, ordering the sort of dish that I suspect most punters here order, namely their "Rich Oyster Ramen" (1160 yen) with a ticket bought from the machine just at the entrance. No need for any awkward verbal communication if you don't want it. 

I went for the "Rich Oyster Ramen" because it looked—and was—satisfying enough on its own. Served in a stylish, middle-sized bowl, the robustly-textured Mikawaya noodles luxuriate in what can best be described as an "oyster bouillabaisse," with stewed bamboo shoots, char siu grilled pork shoulder, and nori.

The shop boasts that its soup is made using a large amount of fresh oysters from Hiroshima, with the extract concentrated using a unique—and presumably secret—method. They recommend adding a little lemon juice from the table to enhance the flavour further. 

You can also get "Rich Oyster Ramen Deluxe" (1560 yen), which has more port shoulder, bamboo shoots, and a shellfish seasoned egg.

I don't know why you would come here if you didn't love the rich cloudy taste of oyster soup, but, for those looking for a lighter taste, there is also “Light Clam Salt Ramen” on the menu, plus "Oyster Rice" and "Cheese Risotto." Next time I might try the "Oyster Dipping Noodles" or the "Rich Oyster Mazesoba."

I was genuinely shocked by the quality and the low prices. I only spent around $7 or $8 dollars (£5-6) for something that satisfied the soul as well as the stomach.

Address: Tokyo, Chuo City, Tsukiji, 3 Chome−16−9 アーバンメイツビル １F

Open: 6:00-17:00, closed Sundays 

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Rating: 9/10